Forums » Open clinical » Expedition and mountain medicine » Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
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Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 26/6/2012 11:55 PM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 1604
First: 24/12/2008 Last: 20/6/2013 |
Recenty, BMJ published a retrospective cohort analysis of Himalaya Climbers (the peaks taller than 8000m). The study has something good to say about commercialized climbing i.e guided expeditions though the difference is not that big. The abstract is here: ================ AbstractObjectives To determine whether previous Himalayan experience is associated with a decreased risk of climbing death, and whether mountaineers participating in commercial expeditions differ in their risk of death relative to those participating in traditional climbs. Design Retrospective cohort study. Setting Expeditions in the Nepalese Himalayan peaks, from 1 January 1970 to the spring climbing season in 2010. Participants 23 995 non-porters venturing above base camp on 39 038 climbs, 23 295 on 8000 m peaks. Outcome Death. Results After controlling for use of standard route, peak, age, season, sex, summit success, and year of expedition, increased Himalayan experience was not associated with a change in the odds of death (odds ratio 1.00, 95% confidence interval 0.96 to 1.05, P=0.904). Participation in a commercial climb was associated with a 37% lower odds of death relative to a traditional venture, although not significantly (0.63, 0.37 to 1.09, P=0.100). Choice of peak was clearly associated with altered odds of death (omnibus P<0.001); year of expedition was associated with a significant trend toward reduced odds of death (0.98, 0.96 to 0.99, P=0.011). Conclusions No net survival benefit is associated with increased Himalayan experience or participation in a traditional (versus commercial) venture. The incremental decrease in risk associated with calendar year suggests that cumulative, collective knowledge and general innovation are more important than individual experience in improving the odds of survival. It is also associated with an editorial that goes : "Climbing the Himalayas more safely" Link: http://www.bmj.com/content/344/bmj.e3778 |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialiazation
posted at 27/6/2012 12:34 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 3059
First: 27/3/2012 Last: 13/6/2013 |
An interesting & clinically significant study. Many thanks respected Dr. Matiram. The findings of this study open the door for consideration of commercialisation as a constructive innovation associated with positive outcomes, although further investigation is needed into the nature and wider implications of this growing trend. Such research should include an examination of variables not addressed in the present study, such as guide or client status, expedition leaders’ experiences of the same peak, the density of climbers on a particular route, and other variables that differ between commercial operators (for example, sherpa to client ratio or the amount and use of supplemental oxygen). High altitude mountaineering is an extremely dangerous and increasingly popular activity, with mortality rates exceeding those of almost any other recreational activity. Owing to a trend towards the commercialisation of Himalayan mountaineering, relatively inexperienced climbers are mentored by professional guides to climb peaks they would not otherwise have been experienced enough to climb on their own. Injury rates of high altitude mountaineering have fallen over the past several decades. What this study adds is: Commercial Himalayan expeditions are not more dangerous than traditional expeditions and could in fact be safer. Climbers with considerable previous climbing experience in the Nepalese Himalayas are as likely to die as climbers on their first expedition; experience in the region is not associated with a survival benefit. |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 27/6/2012 8:52 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 2139
First: 12/3/2010 Last: 19/6/2013 |
Just last month, these pictures appeared of over SIX HUNDRED 'climbers' queuing on the Lhotse face of Everest: http://www.guardian.co.uk/world/2012/may/30/everest-mountaineer-crowding-hobby-tragedy Four people died that weekend, and from the article many of the 'climbers' were really tourists, with little trainig or experience of high altitude ascents. It's a wonder more didn't die. John |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 30/6/2012 4:10 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 1604
First: 24/12/2008 Last: 20/6/2013 |
Agreed Dr Ashutosh! And they were quite shocking pictures John but that has been there for a while each year. It is news when people die but when they climb and come back, they will be featured in their respective places and highlighted. Hence, media has to play responsible role as well.
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 1/7/2012 11:10 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 2139
First: 12/3/2010 Last: 19/6/2013 |
My apologies Matiram, I didn't read your OP properly. So "previous Himalayan experience", or being on a 'commercial' or traditional expedition has no influence on survival, whereas the peak you attempt and the year does. I think that reflects the nature of the 'Death Zone', where physiology is so extremely challneged, and the vagaries of weather when even the Monsoon is unreliable. It would be a disgraceful indictment if commercial expos were more dangerous. That Himalayan experience wins out over the pressure of getting your customers to the top is a compliment to the organisers. John |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 1/7/2012 5:12 PM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 1604
First: 24/12/2008 Last: 20/6/2013 |
No worries John, What I'm saying is experience does count and commercial expeditions do get this. It was a bit clever analysis to split that up but it would sell well since it has been so much into the media and news especially when casualties are there and those pictures show up. It is obvious without commercial expeditions, there wouldn't be so many people. You are right about peaks and attempts. We often forget to see bigger picture and holistic view of climbing sport. For example, extremely strong and elite survivors from 1996 disaster have died in subsequent years when they were back in climbing business. Yes, I agree about your last paragraph. I had been talking to some experienced Sherpa climbers and the had so many stories about how silent killer is 'death zone'.
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 17/7/2012 1:05 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 1604
First: 24/12/2008 Last: 20/6/2013 |
Hi all, Leaders from this field have responded to the original article. I am really glad to read from Prof Dr Chris Imray and consultant neurosurgeon Dr Mark Wilson. It is really important and scholarly response. Enjoy reading ...... Link: http://www.bmj.com/content/344/bmj.e3782?tab=responses |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 23/7/2012 9:07 AM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 2139
First: 12/3/2010 Last: 19/6/2013 |
Nil carborundum, Duane! Brian Blessed is a well known UK actor, beloved for his loud voice, louder laugh and vigorous performances. A longtime mountaineer, he has tried to claimb Everest on three ocasions, the last at the age of 55. He turned back to save another climber. So at a mere 52, dream higher! John |
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Re: Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
posted at 23/7/2012 2:56 PM BST
on bmj.com
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Posts: 1604
First: 24/12/2008 Last: 20/6/2013 |
DuanF, you can ride on Yak to the Everest Base Camp from Nepal side and almost to the Camp-1 from North Side (Tibet).... :) Horses have been frequenly used from Nepal side upto 5000m altitude ...hence, it might be easier :)
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Forums » Open clinical » Expedition and mountain medicine » Climbing Himalayas: Safety and Commercialization
